About Malta - The Walls of Siege

In her book Malta of the Knights, first published in 1929, Elizabeth Schemerhorn wrote that “the history of the fortifications of Valletta is the history of the Order in Malta”.

In reality it is the history of the Maltese archipelago itself which is, in many ways, a history of fortification. Certainly few other islands around the world can so eloquently claim the title of “island fortress”. Fewer still are those fortified landscapes which can boast such a rich concentration of stone-built defenses in a combined surface area that covers little more than 300 km2.

History of Malta
This vast legacy of forts and fortresses, citadels and fortified towns and cities, towers, batteries, and entrenchments, and concrete forts and World War Two bunkers and pillboxes which dominate this rocky and insular landscape bears testimony to the intense periods of military activity that have helped shape the history of the Maltese Islands. Over the centuries, Malta’s strategic location at the centre of the Mediterranean Sea, coupled with it’s excellent natural harbour, saw it play a leading role in the military struggle for supremacy in the region. This was accompanied by a nearly continual investment in fortifications, particularly from 1530 onwards when it was transformed into a frontline bulwark of Christendom by the Hospitalier Knights of the Order of St. John and then, after 1800, as Britain’s entrepot and naval base.

Surely no other place around the shores of the Mediterranean can match the diversity of shape and the powerful sculptural features encountered in Malta’s rampants, knit as they are of virgin rock, dressed stone and reinforced concrete. They are truly majestic essays of force encountering force, of grace under pressure. In terms of fortifications, the Maltese Islands are truly unique. This uniqueness has long been acknowledged throughout the course of history.

Malta owes this unique wealth of defensive architecture to three important factors: its geography, the Knights of St. John and the British military. Geography placed these islands in a position of strategic importance in the centre of the narrow channel joining the eastern and western basins of the Mediterranean, rendering to them a unique strategic relevance in the history of the region. It also endowed Malta with an excellent natural harbour, one of the finest first-class anchorages to be found anywhere around the shores of the Mediterranean, big enough to accommodate any size of fleet, and it furnished the archipelago with an easily worked stone ideal for realizing extensive building programmes.

Order of St John
The first to systematically exploit all these features for military purposes were the Hospitaller Knights of the Order of St. John. These warrior monks, who first came together in the Holy Land for the protection of

pilgrims at the time of the Crusades, were responsible for starting the process of militarization that was to result in the widespread fortification of the Maltese Islands. The Knights’ arrival in Malta in 1530 set off an unprecedented building spree, which over the course of the next 268 years, saw the whole harbour area, transformed into one large fortress system with kilometres of bastions, citadels, entrenchments, coastal batteries and towers.

The core of these fortifications is made up of a network of defences guarding the harbours of Malta (the Grand Harbour and Marsamxett), with their nodal point, the fortified city of Valletta, all of which were built by the Knights of the Order of St. John between 1530 and 1798.

This unique ensemble of permanent defences built mainly to the conventions of the bastioned style was then inherited by the British in 1800 who continued to augment and modify it as their naval base, eventually spreading the whole defensive effort to cover the remainder of the island with new important works of fortification, creating in the process a unique island-fortress system. In all, some of the 31 forts and large batteries, five fortified cities, three fortified lines (one of which is 12kms long), over 50 tower and coastal batteries, and hundreds of WW11 concrete bunkers and defences – comprising, together over 60 kms of fortifications were erected to defend the Islands’ urban settlements, harbours and shores.


Are you interested in the History of Malta? There is so much you can learn about Malta. To assist you the Grand Hotel Excelsior Malta is offering a special Malta Military and Heritage Package. Feel free to contact the friendly Team at this Luxury Malta Hotel who will assist you in planning your special Malta Holidays and inform your about Things to Do in Malta during your stay.

Malta Attractions - Walking Trails

Malta’s central position in the Mediterranean has made the Island a hub of history - from the landing of St Paul; through the times of the Knights of St John; to the modern epic of Gallant Malta.

A cultural mix makes Malta unique. Its language is based on Arabic, but English is widely spoken. There is a rich variety of country walking allowing visitors and locals alike to explore the Maltese Islands’ landscape of small ridges and valleys, seamed by tracks among stone walls and little farmsteads as well as lovely panoramic coastal paths. There are a number of attractive country walks in Malta. The ideal period for walks is autumn to spring as the weather would not be as hot and the countryside turns into a green paradise with blossoming wild flowers.

Gozo is greener, without the bustle of large towns. With some great walking across irrigated farmland, steep valleys, terraced fields and table-top hills, there is no better way of discovering the best the island has to offer. Through walking tours you may explore the hidden and secluded areas around the island and discover stunning views and hidden valleys. You may come across wayside chapels and old forts as well as villages that have remained practically untouched where elderly men and women still work the fields. There are also many historical and archaeological sites with breathtaking views.

If you are planning your next Malta holidays the Chauffuer Driven Service at this superior Malta Hotel can assist you with your Malta Walking Tours.

Visit Malta - The Sacred Islands

Maltese Prehistory
The Mediterranean island of Malta figures in the historical record of Europe due to its association with the Knights of St. John of Jerusalem. However this small island, of 243 square kilometres, has a far greater importance in European prehistory due to its extraordinary collection of megalithic temples.

According to the studies of orthodox archaeologists, the remains of bones, fragments of pottery, and marks of fire indicate that human beings have lived on Malta since at least 5200 BC.

Malta temples
Evidence suggests, these early people lived in caves, but later built huts and villages. Approximately 1600 years after their arrival in Malta, these people began the formation of stupendous megalithic temples. The ruins now remaining are the bare skeletons of once magnificent structures, mostly roofed over, paved, furnished with doors and curtains, and beautifully decorated with sculptures and paintings.

On the Islands of Malta and Gozo, one may find around 23 temples in various states of preservation although the remains of 50 temples have been found. No particular pattern emerges from the distribution of these temples and this may be explained by the probability that numerous temples were destroyed in antiquity and that others remain to be discovered.

Amongst these 23 temples is the Hypogeum which is situated in Paola, and was discovered surprisingly by workmen digging at about 3.5 m under the road surface. The word Hypogeum comes from the Greek word “Ipogaina”, which means, “an underground construction sunk into the solid rock.” It is a UNESCO World Heritage site like the other temples in Malta. This underground temple is made up from a set of rooms and caves dug by Copper - Age people, most probably between the years 4100 B.C. and 2500 B.C. At the beginning of its existence, the Hypogeum was used as a temple or sanctuary as well as a burial place. This is

known due to its architectural resemblance to the freestanding Megalithic Temples outside. However the greatest evidence present is the several statuettes of the Fat Lady, their goddess of Fertility. A big statue of a “sleeping Lady” was also found in this temple. The discoveries of some 7,000 human bones were also found in the temple and many dead people were found buried with their personal belongings.

The megalithic temple of Hagar Qim is another historical wonder situated in the West of Malta, near the village of Qrendi and was built between 3600 B.C. and 3000 B.C. The name Hagar Qim means “freestanding boulders” and was first explored in 1839. Hagar Qim was the third temple to be built in the Maltese Islands and its layout is very similar in shape of the other temples. The original alters previously found in the temple can now be found in the Museum of Archaeology.

Though of more recent origin than the great megalithic temples, the Romanesque basilica of Ta’ Pinu is of importance as a pilgrimage site. Legends relate that in 1883, a local woman named Carmel Grima heard a voice telling her to pray by a 16th century chapel. A friend, Francesco Portelli, confirmed that he had also heard the voice and thus they prayed together for Francesco’s bedridden mother and she soon experienced a miraculous recovery. More miraculous healings were thereafter reported and from thanksgiving offerings the present sanctuary was built in the 1920’s.The sanctuary incorporates the early chapel, whose original caretaker, Pinu Gauci, lent his name to the site. The Ta’ Pinu Shrine is visited for its healing qualities and is also sacred to sailors. Many locals as well as foreigners visit the site to offer thanksgiving and pay for healings.

If you are planning your next holiday to Malta, stay in a top five star Luxury Malta Hotel that offers superior Accommodation. Our Chauffeur Driven Service can guide you on where to go in Malta during your stay.

Malta - Life During the War

The role of Malta in the Second World War reflects the strategic position that it held in the Mediterranean as it acted as a gateway between the continents of Europe and Africa seeing as it was Britain’s most important Mediterranean naval base. Hence, when Mussolini plunged Italy into the war in 1940, Malta knew that it was destined to play a frontline role. In fact, Malta holds the record for the heaviest, sustained bombing attack: some 154 days and nights and 6,700 tons of bombs.

The people in Malta faced many challenges. Those who lived in the capital Valletta and “The Three Cities” had to be evacuated because of the danger of bombing and were also forced underground into a network of bomb shelters that could reportedly house nearly half of the island’s population. Due to the ferocious bombing, many towns and villages were reduced to rubble and hence, most people were spending long periods in the shelters as a form of protection.

When their morale was at its lowest, there came a glimmer of light, of hope, of joy for such a long-suffering people. The bravery and courage portrayed by the Islands population was not gone unnoticed and on the 15th April, 1942, King George VI awarded the island the George Cross, which is considered to be the highest civilian medal, for its peoples bravery and heroism.

“To honour her brave people, I award the George Cross to the Island Fortress of Malta to bear witness to a heroism and devotion that long be famous in history”.

Once the war ended, the Maltese Islands were economically and physically devastated. In 1947, the Islands were granted around £30 million to help rebuild it. However it took several decades and further restructuring once the British forces left Malta completely in 1979, to rebuild the economy.

Re-live the Great Siege that erupted between the Knights of St John and the fierce Ottoman Empire; French and British rule; and the city’s heroic role in World War II. Check Out the Valletta History Package offered by this Luxury Malta Hotel.

Spa Malta - Discover the Mediterranean Touch

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Bring about a “body revival” and induce absolute relaxation, on the Mediterranean Island of Malta.

With a sea of turquoise blue, a spectacular coastline and megalithic structures pre-dating Stonehenge.

This is an island of hidden secrets.

 

Should you wish to experience one of our Special Malta Spa Packages kindly contact us on spa@excelsior.com.mt or on +356 21250520.

72 hours in Malta

300 days of sunshine, crystal clear Mediterranean waters, 7,000 years of history, thriving local traditions and laid-back rural villages, delicious cuisine and a vibrant nightlife – Welcome to Malta!

Stay at the Grand Hotel Excelsior, two minutes away from Valletta, and relive the Knight’s of St. John legacy. Visit the medieval city of Mdina, one of Europe’s finest examples of an ancient walled city and extraordinary in its mix of medieval and baroque architecture. Head north to enjoy Mediterranean sun, sand and sea. Experience Gozo where tranquillity is still a way of life. Enjoy Malta’s religious ‘festas’, adorned churches and glittering firework displays. Discover megalithic temples, rugged countryside and dramatic cliffs or submerge into a diver’s paradise. Wine and dine in stylish surroundings and party in lively evening venues.

If you have only three days in Malta, do not attempt to see it all. Although the area covered by the Maltese Islands is just 316 km², there is plenty to see and do so we recommend you experience just a few of Malta’s highlights to get a feeling of the island’s character.

We will start by giving you information about Things to do in Malta on Day 1.

Day 1 – Valletta & Sliema

With the Grand Hotel Excelsior as your home, the Capital Valletta, is probably the most obvious place to start. With the entire city declared a UNESCO World Heritage site, walking through its streets is nothing short of walking through an open-air museum. Walk along Republic Street to St John’s Co-Cathedral, the jewel of Valletta, with its gilded interior enough to make one’s jaw drop. Look out for the Caravaggio’s only signed painting, The Beheading of St John. Exit the Catheral and dive into the open-air market in Merchants’ Street. All in all, Valletta is also a great place for shopping.

Do take the time to wander through the alleyways, up and down the lopes and stairways, and to sit under the sun with a coffee watching the pigeons. In whichever order you choose to do these, try to be at the Upper Barrakka Gardens at noon for the re-enactment and shooting of the cannon, and enjoy one of the most spectacular views in Malta, that of the Grand Harbour.

For the afternoon we recommend a Harbour Cruise which takes you to see the the Three Cities from a unique perspective and which offers an insight to the essence of Maltese History.

Tomorrow we will be giving you some tips on what to do in Malta on Day 2. So visit the Blogs of the Grand Hotel Excelsior Malta to stay updated.

Should you wish to experience one of our exclusive tours during your Holidays in Malta kindly contact our chauffeur driven service on: +356 21250520 or on transport@excelsior.com.mt.

Photos courtesy of the Malta Tourism Authority.



Valletta - the Capital City of Malta

Valletta can be described as a living experience of Baroque architecture, dotted with quaint cafes, and over 25 churches, testament to the centuries-old grained Catholic faith of the Maltese nation. With its fortifications and history-filled streets, is probably the best known place in Malta and gems such as St. John’s Co-Cathedral justify its reputation.

Malta’s majestic Grand Harbour is one of the most spectacular ports in the world separating the capital city of Valletta from the historic cities of Vittoriosa, Senglea and Cospicua. The harbour has been a hive of activity for over two thousand years. With its imposing fortifications and vast panorama, Grand Harbour is Malta’s principal maritime gateway and a popular port-of-call for ships that are cruising the Mediterranean.

The Three Cities of Cospicua, Vittoriosa and Senglea are three of the oldest towns on the island of Malta. The town of Vittoriosa played an important role in the 1565 Great Siege of Malta.

Vittoriosa was the town in which the Knights of Malta settled in on their arrival from Rhodes in 1530. Vittoriosa together with Cospicua and Senglea form three important walled cities along one side of the Grand Harbour. The town of Kalkara is located close to the Three cities. The town gets its name from the latin word calce (lime) since a lime kiln was located here during the Roman times. In Kalkara one finds the quaint hamlet of Santu Rokku and Fort Ricasoli which over the years has been used for the construction of film sets for important blockbusters like Gladiator and Troy and the recent Agora.

For information on Things to do in Malta during your holiday speak to the Transport Desk at the Grand Hotel Excelsior Malta and they will guide you with some of our popular Malta Excursions.

GREAT MALTA DEALS

Escape to the Mediterranean for your holidays. Relax and enjoy a great break at a leading luxury hotel in Malta. Enjoy all the luxuries of a 5 star Hotel in Valletta Malta at a fantastic price with our January Sales Offer.  

Rates starting from 71 Euro per night for sole use! Check availability & BOOK NOW! 

 

Terms & Conditions:

•  Rates can be booked on Room Only basis or on Bed and Breakfast Basis.
• Use of our leisure facilities throughout your stay and complimentary parking for in house guests apply.
• Quoted Rates are inclusive of tax and availability is subject to change at time of booking.
• Kindly note that other rates apply should a client opt for an earlier departure than otherwise booked.

Meet the Landscaping Manager at this Luxury Malta Hotel

Celestino and His Olive Trees

One look at our landscaping manager and his genuine smile leaves no doubt about his passion for Excelsior Hotel’s trees, plants and flowers. Celestino is especially fond of the olive trees which are everywhere around the hotel.

Olive trees are among the oldest known cultivated trees in the world. Genetic and archaeological studies indicate that the original center of olive cultivation was Israel, Lebanon, Cyprus and Crete.

The Jewish people knew about the olive tree thousands of years ago. In the Hebrew culture, the olive tree symbolized peace and happiness.

Olive tree cultivation was spread to Greece or North Africa to Italy and to other Mediterranean countries around 600 B.C. The olive tree was probably introduced to Spain by the Greeks, the Romans and the Arabs.

The olive tree is of great historic importance. It played an important role in areas such as diet, religion, and the decoration of pottery, of walls and of gold pieces of art. It also constituted the symbol for peace, wisdom and victory. The crowning wreaths for the winners of the Olympic games were made of a wild olive branch (Kotinos).

The therapeutic properties of the olive oil were known to Hippocrates, the father of medicine. The consumption of a spoonful of oil was common practice for many people and still is for some, despite the advancement of pharmacology.

During your holiday in Malta, if you need to know more about how we take care of our olive trees, please ask Our Front Office team to contact our colleague Celestino and he will be more than happy to explain further.

Life is the Bubbles… Under the Sea…

Diving in Malta

Set like precious gems in a sea of purest blue, the five islands of Malta, Gozo, Comino, Comminotto and Filfla offer a diverse and captivating experience, both above and below the water. The warm clear blue Mediterranean surrounding the Maltese Islands beckons divers down to discover many hidden delights most of which are world renowned and frequented by thousands every year.

Safe tideless water offer year round accessibility with Summer presenting its own character and charm. The Islands are honeycombed with stunning caves, caverns and grottos to be explored and enjoyed by those who know where to find them.

Whether you are an absolute beginner or an experienced diver, we can help you do the right choice to immerse yourself in this splendid underwater world.

Check Out Our Malta Diving Package and for more details kindly visit Our Dive Malta Page.

Planning your Wedding in Malta - Your Ideal Malta Wedding

Could marrrying abroad be for you?

Bring us your vision and let us show you its realisation. From intimate to extravagant, traditional to unexpected, Malta’s finest, Grand Hotel Excelsior, is at your service and dedicated to creating an unforgettable wedding that is uniquely yours.

Situated in walking distance of Malta’s historic walled capital city of Valletta, there is plenty to do – discover 320 historic monuments inside the walls, enjoy the fabulous Malta Restaurants and Cafes or simply soak up the sunshine. Air Malta, Ryanair, Easyjet and British Airways operate direct from the UK to Malta. The hotel offers 428 elegant rooms and suites, each with its own romantic balcony or terrace offering fine views of the marina and harbour or the hotel’s colourful plaza.

A Selection of Honeymoon & Wedding Venues in Malta 

When it comes to the event, there is something to suit everyone - from the opulent Grand Ballroom with panoramic sea views for a really lavish wedding reception of over 1,000 people to a choice of delightful outdoor areas, ideal for al fresco cocktails and dining, or a more intimate affair.

Beach Weddings in Malta
Brides and Grooms across the UK will be delighted to learn that Malta’s premier deluxe resort, the Grand Hotel Excelsior in Valletta, recently added the rare delights of a sandy beach – the only one in Valletta – to the charm of its fantastic setting. The beach overlooks colourful Marsamxett Harbour and Manoel Island to make a picture-perfect backdrop for memorable photographs. Grand Hotel Excelsior’s boutique beach is for the exclusive use of guests and is available for private hire; it is ideal for a cocktail reception, romantic dinner for two – a truly unique way to propose – or even for a chilled out after party should anyone be considering post-wedding fun. It has been created with quality golden sands and has steps leading into the water, making sea swimming access easy. Alternatively, if sand and sea is not your thing then the huge sun-terrace with an impressively large out-door swimming pool and al fresco Tiki Bar, offers a welcome alternative. Directly and solely accessible from the hotel, the beach certainly enhances the attraction of Europe’s most exciting new addition to the A-list of wedding and honeymoon venues in the Mediterranean.

Grand Hotel Excelsior can perform civil wedding ceremonies, and will make all the arrangements from start to finish of a perfect, effortless wedding stay or honeymoon. Located in Floriana, immediately next to Valletta’s historic 16th century city walls, it commands Malta’s prime waterfront location; breathtaking sea views and is just a short walk - or a romantic Karrozzin (horse and cart) ride - from the vibrant and colourful city centre, recognised as a UNESCO world heritage site.

Every couple receives a personal welcome and friendly, professional service. The hotel’s dedicated team of wedding planners will arrange an initial meeting to establish precisely what the bride and groom want, after which the entire wedding ceremony, reception and/or honeymoon is tailored exclusively to order. The hotel’s wedding planners are always available for consultation: first-class service and attention to detail guarantee a memorable special day that exceeds all expectation.

The award winning kitchen brigade has put together delectable, innovative menus for you to choose from, however, are always happy to tailor make a menu to suit your specific requirements, whether a sit down meal for 20 guests or a stand up reception for 800. After all, this tends to be the most awaited day of your life and we want to ensure it is as perfect as it could be.

Exceptional cuisine, flawless service and world class luxury in the magnificent setting of a Mediterranean island rich in history and natural beauty… Everything is in place for a spectacular wedding day and a dream honeymoon at the Grand Hotel Excelsior. Contact the hotel’s team of wedding planners by email or pick up the phone and talk to them. They can’t wait to create the perfect wedding or honeymoon, just for you.

Should you wish to plan Your Dream Wedding in Malta kindly contact our Wedding Specialists on weddings@excelsior.com.mt or visit the Hotel's Website for more information: http://www.excelsior.com.mt/

Mix business with pleasure at these exotic banking destinations.

Malta - With 18 licensed offshore banks, the tiny island country of Malta is fast becoming a hub for international finance and leisure alike. The Grand Hotel Excelsior, one of the most luxurious waterfront resorts in the area, is a favorite of Rod Stewart, Kid Rock and the Scissor Sisters and likely to become one of yours as well. Guests can sail their yachts into the private 30-berth marina just steps away from the stunning, 10-story hotel. When you’re not lounging by the pool, dive into the Mediterranean or visit the Casinò di Venezia Malta, located in the magnificent 17th-century Captains’ Palace. After all that, relax at one of the three restaurants or four bars the hotel offers and remind yourself: This is the life. http://www.excelsior.com.mt/

By Irina Grechko and Becky White

To View Article in its original source click here:

http://www.bostoncommon-magazine.com/culture/articles/foreign-affairs

Air Malta and Grand Hotel Excelsior winners!

Fulham FC are pleased to announce that the winners of our recent Air Malta competition are Claire Hall and David Edward. They will be jetting off to the Mediterranean courtesy of Air Malta and staying in the exclusive Grand Hotel Excelsior in Malta. After pre-ordering their brand new 2010/11 Away Kit, Claire and David were automatically entered into the competition to win this fantastic break!

Ideal Malta Breaks

Malta, thanks to a strong British heritage, is a nation of football enthusiasts and an excellent short-break destination to catch some Mediterranean sun, without missing out on any fixtures. Offering double daily flights from Gatwick and Heathrow, a daily service from Manchester and twice-weekly flights from Birmingham, hot, sunny weather is just a short three-hour flight away.

The Making of Malta - Excellent Malta Holidays

Day 1 - More to Malta

The tiny island of Malta, adrift in the Mediterranean like a stepping stone between Italy and Africa, has been forced to endure many injustices in its 7,000-year history - a five-month siege by Ottoman Turks, irreparable looting by Napoleon’s garrisons and 154 days of Luftwaffe bombing to name but a few. Yet, in its own way, the current affront to Malta causes equal indignation.

I am talking, of course, of the island’s reputation as a mere bucket-and-spade, fly-and-flop package destination, with little more to offer than jam-packed dive sites and beaches crowded with leathery pensioners.

It is time to explode this myth and send it scurrying for cover like the returning French football team.

Malta is in fact the perfect destination for anyone with a penchant for history, culture, stand-and-stare architecture, gin-clear water and meals that revolve around the fishermen’s catch. And if you want that wrapped in a fabulous climate then you’ll find that too - April to October sees little but sunshine, usually tempered by a cooling sea breeze.

Better still, it’s just a three-hour flight from the UK. Easyjet, Ryanair and BMI Baby all fly the route, though the national flag carrier, Air Malta, offers the more civilised flight times, operating out of Heathrow, Gatwick, Birmingham, Manchester and, in summer, Glasgow.

Transfers? Hardly an issue. The only airport is less than 45 minutes’ drive from anywhere on the island, and is just 8 km from Valletta, Malta’s Lilliputian capital (at barely a kilometre long and only 600 m wide, it may well be Europe’s smallest).

Perhaps to prove that Malta can cater as well for the discerning traveller as it can for the mass market, my friend and I choose to stay at the Grand Hotel Excelsior, Valletta’s most luxurious hotel, with an enviable position on the Marsamxett Harbour waterfront.

The lobby sets a tone of classical-inspired elegance, with a wide central staircase, freestanding statues and the smart Harbour View bar. But it’s not until you stop to take in said view that you realise you’re already on the sixth floor, with the bulk of the hotel’s far-reaching facilities focussed on the waterfront below you.

Serried ranks of sea-front rooms boast spacious balconies with magnificent views of the passing yachts and the honey-coloured buildings of Manoel Island. In fact, barely anywhere in the hotel is the water out of sight. From the moment you wake for breakfast at the glass-fronted Spice Island Restaurant (the smoked swordfish is a treat) to watching the sunset - cocktail in hand - by the freeform pool or on the small private beach, it’s almost impossible not to gaze out to sea.

Then again, such marvellous panoramas had a great deal to do with Valletta being built in the first place, though its orchestrators were thinking more about defence than impressing hotel guests.

In 1530, Malta was given to the spiritual and military order, the Knights of St John, whose origins trace back to the Christian Crusades of the 11th and 12th centuries. The Knights, however, almost lost the island to the Turks in the Great Siege of 1565 and, fearing further reprisals, set about building a new city in a more defensible position on the Sceberras Peninsula.

The result was Valletta, named after Jean Parisot de la Valette, the Grand Master of the Knights and the hero of the siege. Surrounded on three sides by the sea, Valletta was bestowed with churches, palaces, uildings tall enough to offer shade from the sun and straight streets to allow the cooling sea breezes to circulate. A great ditch was cut across the peninsula to protect the landward approach and massive walls and bastions were raised around the city’s perimeter. It remains a masterpiece of architecture and town planning, described by UNESCO as "one of the most concentrated historic areas in the world".

Among its streets, as I discover to my delight, are a number of great restaurants, cafes and wine bars. We begin with a glass of merlot at Trabuxu, a cosy spot decorated with oak barrels, musical instruments and black and white photos, before sitting down to eat in the private courtyard of Fusion Four, set into the 400-year-old bastion walls. Few restaurants exude as much charm and character; fewer back it up with either such warm-hearted service (the owner gave us a private tour of the restaurant’s museum as she filled us in on the island’s history) or such mouth-watering food: freshly caught sea bass and tender pork fillet, wrapped in pancetta and served on a bed of stewed apples.

Day 2 ­- Medieval Marvels

Valletta in daylight and my first impressions are of limestone façades fronting six- or seven-storey buildings. At street level, shopfront signs reveal Arabic and Italian influences ­- Maltese is close to colloquial Arabic and Sicily is just 90 minutes away by ferry - and on almost ever corner are the chiselled features of Catholic iconography. The Maltese claim to be one of the oldest Christian peoples in the world, having been converted by St Paul after his shipwreck on Malta in AD 60, and 98% of the island’s population remains Roman Catholic.

Fitting then that our first port of call is St John’s Co-Cathedral, the most impressive of Malta’s 359 Catholic churches. The façade may be plain, austere even, yet the interior is a celebration of Maltese baroque. The nave is long and low, with every wall, pillar and rib encrusted with ornamentation, including Maltese crosses and the arms of the Order. The floor is a patchwork of colourful marble tombs and the striking barrelled vault is divided into seven vast panels, each depicting a scene from the life of St John the Baptist.

But the headlines are held for what lies in the oratory: two original works by revolutionary painter, Caravaggio. His spine-tingling masterpiece, The Beheading of St John the Baptist, dominates the far wall (note the artist’s signature in the blood seeping from St John’s severed head), while opposite is his equally evocative work, St Jerome.

Outside, in the sunshine of Republic Square, waitresses ferry frothy cappuccinos while an enthroned statue of Queen Victoria looks on impassively. We don’t stop, however, preferring instead to take our refreshments at the Upper Barrakka Gardens, overlooking the British canons that top the bastion walls and the shimmering Grand Harbour beyond.

Once fortified, we board a yellow local bus for the short trip to Mdina. In medieval times, Mdina (from the Arabic for ’walled city’) was the favoured residence of the Maltese nobility and the seat of the governing council. But when the sea-faring Knights of St John made the Grand Harbour their base of operations, Mdina sank into the background.

This surely was its saving grace, as few old cities remain so gloriously unspoilt. This is historic Malta at its most photogenic: quiet streets and hidden lanes untouched by modern branding, wall-clinging bougainvillea and beautifully preserved palazzi (some, like Palazzo Falson, have been opened as museums, offering a rare glimpse behind aristocratic walls).

We eat lunch at the Fontanella Tea Gardens, perched on top of the bastion walls, looking out across the vineyards and dusty fields towards the ocean beyond. A pause between courses to wander the quiet streets, then dessert at Xara Palace, once a 17th century palazzo, now one of Malta’s most elegant small hotels.

Our trio of old cities concludes after dark with Vittoriosa, which faces Valletta from across the Grand Harbour. It was on this finger of land that the Knights of St John withheld the Turkish onslaught of 1565. Today, its regenerated waterfront sports open-air restaurants, a marina-cum-superyacht-parking-lot and even a casino. Yet despite the obvious flaunting of wealth, Vittoriosa remains quiet and picturesque. By day - I am told - its flower-bedecked alleys make for excellent aimless wanderings, while at night, the views of floodlit Valletta make a wonderful backdrop to the freshest of fish suppers.

Day 3 - Megalithic Magic

If seeing its walled cities had given me a sense of Malta’s last 500 years of history, I was about to be transported a lot further back in time. The temples of Hagar Qim and Mnajdra in south-east Malta were first thought to be copies of the Mycenaean temple style, yet carbon dating has since shown them to be a full millennium older.

Staggeringly, Malta’s megalithic temples are the oldest surviving free-standing structures in the world, built between 3600 and 2500 BC, more than 1,000 years before Giza’s Great Pyramid or Avebury’s Stonehenge. Hagar Qim and Mnajdra are among the best preserved and most evocative.

Tent-like structures have been erected above them to protect them from the elements and a shiny new visitors centre opened earlier this year. Walking through the monumental doorways into rounded rooms built of limestone blocks weighing up to 20 tons, erected by people who had neither metal tools nor even a written language, soon began to make my head spin.

What was needed was a walk to let history sink in. Leaving the temples, we take a coastal track towards Ghar Lapsi, where a cove in the limestone cliffs has been converted into a natural lido, with stone steps and iron ladders giving access to the limpid blue waters (such a pity about the blaring House music emanating from the waterfront restaurant).

Malta’s coastline is spectacular to behold, with layers of rock, millions of years old, forming vertical sea cliffs pocked with caves, reefs and vast limestone arches like the popular Blue Grotto. From June to October the average sea temperature is above 20°C and the water is an inviting turquoise blue.

Back by the pool at the Grand Hotel Excelsior, watching fireworks mark the start of another of Malta’s festas (a series of feast days that runs almost without stopping from June to September), I take stock of where I am. In front lies a harbour that’s played host to crusading knights and an Ottoman armada. Behind tower the walls of Europe’s first planned city. Scattered around me are contented guests and smiling staff - service alone at the Grand Hotel Excelsior is good enough to earn it its 5-star rating. I’ve found history and culture, swum in crystal-clear water and eaten like a king. But something is missing. Oh yes ... the buckets and spades and the package parades.

Writer: Pete Mathers

http://www.wexas.com/Malta/holidays/

12 July 2010